Millinery Styles and Hat Shapes

Millinery Styles and Hat Shapes

Hat shapes are defined by their structural form, including crown shape, brim profile and overall proportion. The styles listed focus on women’s racewear and occasion millinery as seen at The Millinery Retreat. This is not a comprehensive list of all hat forms, but rather a curated reference to shapes commonly used in contemporary racing and special event millinery.

Beret

Straw berets are valued for their clean lines and understated elegance, offering a modern yet classic option for racing. They are frequently finished with a cabillou, subtle trims or delicate detailing, and sit comfortably on the head without overwhelming the wearer or competing with an outfit.

Blocked Headband

A blocked headband is a structured headpiece formed over a block to create a firm, shaped band that sits across or around the head.

Unlike soft fabric headbands, blocked headbands retain their shape and are commonly made from straw, sinamay or felt. They can sit on close to the head or be raised, be minimal, architectural or embellished, offering a polished alternative to larger hat forms in contemporary racewear.

Boater

A flat-crowned, flat-brimmed hat with a crisp, geometric silhouette, traditionally made from stiff straw. The boater is strongly associated with summer dressing and formal daytime events and remains a popular choice for spring racing due to its timeless style and practical sun coverage.

Boaters can be worn centred on the head for a traditional look or tilted to the side for a more contemporary, fashion-forward effect. Their strong horizontal lines make them ideal for pairing with tailored silhouettes and structured garments, while trims can range from minimal ribbon work to bold sculptural embellishment.

Bowler

Traditionally a hard-felt hat with a rounded crown and a small curled brim, the bowler has been reimagined in straw for spring and summer racewear. This “summer bowler” blends vintage charm with breathable materials, creating a structured yet seasonally appropriate headpiece.

Fully blocked and durable, the bowler’s distinctive dome shape offers a polished, confident silhouette. In racewear, it is often styled with elegant trims, veiling or bows to elevate it beyond its utilitarian origins and into refined occasion millinery.

Breton

A straw Breton hat is a classic, chic millinery choice for racing carnivals, defined by its structured silhouette and distinctive brim turned upward all the way around. French-inspired in style, the Breton frames the face beautifully while offering a clean, sculptural profile.

Crownless Breton forms are especially popular in modern racewear, sitting high on the head and creating an almost halo-like effect. This upward emphasis gives the style a contemporary, high-fashion quality, making it a striking choice for Fashions on the Field and formal events.

Button

A small, flat or slightly domed circular headpiece that sits on the head like an oversized button. Button hats are a popular millinery form worn across everyday, racewear and formal occasions.

Often made from woven straw braids, straw hoods or fabric, buttons can be kept minimal or finished with sculptural trims, swirling forms, cabillous or veiling. Their simplicity makes them highly adaptable and suitable for a wide range of styling approaches.

Cap

A soft or semi-structured head covering with a fitted crown, often incorporating a visor or peak. While caps are typically associated with casual or functional wear, they have been successfully adapted into racewear millinery through the use of premium materials and refined construction.

Straw jockey-style caps, in particular, combine the sporty silhouette of traditional equestrian headwear with decorative millinery techniques. These designs bridge casual and formal aesthetics, making them a playful yet polished option for spring and summer racing.

Cartwheel

A cartwheel hat is defined by its very large, flat brim and relatively small crown, creating a strong horizontal silhouette.

Highly dramatic in scale, cartwheel hats are a popular statement choice for racing and formal events. Their expansive brim requires careful attention to balance, proportion and structural support to ensure both comfort and wearability. When well executed, the cartwheel creates a bold, confident presence while framing the wearer elegantly.

Cocktail Hat

A small decorative hat or headpiece worn for formal occasions, traditionally in the late afternoon or evening. Cocktail hats are typically perched on top of the head or angled to the side rather than fully covering it, allowing hairstyles and facial features to remain visible.

Evening cocktail hats focus on glamour and sophistication, often incorporating vintage-inspired shapes and luxurious materials such as velvet, brocade, satin, silk or felt. Designed to complement cocktail dresses and up-do hairstyles, they offer elegance without excessive scale.

Cloche Hat

A cloche hat is a close-fitting style with a rounded crown, designed to sit low on the head and follow the contours of the face.

Historically associated with early 20th-century millinery, the cloche has been reinterpreted for contemporary racewear in straw and lightweight materials. Modern cloches emphasise clean lines and refined proportion, offering a sleek, understated alternative to larger statement hats

Conical Hat

A wide, conical hat traditionally associated with East and Southeast Asia as a functional sun hat. In contemporary racewear and Fashions on the Field, the conical form has been transformed into a highly architectural statement piece.

The defining feature is a sharply pointed or spired centre crown rising to a peak, paired with a broad, downward-sloping or near-flat brim. Reimagined in premium materials such as sinamay and fine straw, the conical hat creates a strong, symmetrical silhouette that is dramatic, sculptural and unmistakably high fashion.

Crown

A blocked or constructed headpiece that focuses entirely on crown structure, representing a shift away from traditional full-brimmed hats toward smaller, more sculptural forms.

Crown shapes sit across the top of the head and may be created using a wide range of materials and techniques, including traditional blocking, freeform construction or hand shaping. Their versatility allows for both refined and highly artistic interpretations, with emphasis placed on detail, texture and craftsmanship.

In contemporary Australian racewear, crown-only forms have become an important trend, offering a lightweight yet visually impactful option that complements an outfit without overpowering it. Their controlled scale makes them especially well suited to modern racing fashion.

Cowgirl Hat

A cowgirl hat is a western-inspired style characterised by a structured crown and shaped brim, often featuring distinctive curves or creases.

In contemporary millinery, the cowgirl hat is adapted for racewear through refined materials, altered proportions and decorative detailing. These reinterpretations balance the bold character of the original form with elegance, making them a striking and fashion-forward choice for themed events and modern racing attire.

Dior Brim

A rounded, downward-sloping brim that creates a soft, mushroom-like silhouette. Popularised in mid-20th-century couture millinery, the Dior brim has remained a timeless and elegant choice ever since.

Structured yet romantic, this shape adds instant sophistication and works beautifully in straw or fabric-covered forms. The feminine downward angle frames the face and lends itself to both minimal and elaborate trimming, making it a perennial favourite for racewear and Fashions on the Field.

Donut

A donut is a ring-shaped millinery form defined by its circular structure and open centre.

Typically positioned toward the back of the head, the donut allows for dramatic scale without excessive weight. This contemporary shape is frequently used in modern racewear and Fashions on the Field, where it may be embellished with flowers, feathers, veiling, beadwork or sculptural elements to enhance its architectural impact.

Facehugger

A sculptural, form-fitting headpiece designed to curve closely around the side of the head and face. Facehuggers are a modern racewear favourite, prized for their sleek, contemporary aesthetic and strong visual impact.

Typically made from materials such as parasisal straw, silk abaca, felt or leather, they can be styled with minimal trims for a clean look or layered with dramatic embellishment and netting. Their close fit creates a confident, fashion-forward silhouette.

Fedora

A hat with a creased crown and medium-width brim, often featuring a snap edge. Originating in menswear, the fedora has been widely adapted into women’s millinery and racewear through refined proportions and elevated materials.

In straw or lightweight felt, the fedora offers a tailored, modern look that pairs well with structured outfits. For racewear, trims and finishes elevate the style beyond casual wear into polished occasion millinery.

Freeform Blocking

Freeform blocking refers to shaping millinery materials without the use of a traditional hat block.

This approach relies on hand manipulation, internal structure and controlled shaping to create organic or sculptural forms. In racewear millinery, freeform blocking is often used to produce unique, one-off pieces that emphasise movement, texture and individuality rather than symmetry or repetition.

Halo 

A halo is a large circular or semi-circular millinery form designed to sit toward the back of the head, framing the face.

Halo shapes create a strong visual statement while keeping the face open and unobstructed. In racewear, halos are valued for their sculptural presence and balanced proportions and are often finished with refined trims or left deliberately minimal to emphasise shape.

Panama Hat

A straw hat made from toquilla straw, traditionally woven in Ecuador. While commonly formed in a fedora-style shape, the term “Panama” refers to material and origin rather than a specific silhouette.

In women’s racewear, Panama hats may feature varying brim widths and shapes, from wide and round to flat and structured. Highly versatile, they transition easily from racing attire to relaxed summer dressing while maintaining a sense of refined style.

Percher

A percher is a small hat designed to sit at the front of the head rather than encircle it.

Perchers may be blocked or sculpted and are usually secured with combs, elastic or millinery wire. Popular in racewear for their lightness and versatility, they provide a structured base for decorative trims while maintaining a refined, unobtrusive scale.

Pillbox

A small, structured headpiece characterised by straight, upright sides and a flat top. The pillbox sits high on the head and is a staple of formal, bridal and ceremonial millinery, valued for its clean lines and vintage elegance.

Modern racewear pillboxes may be circular, oval or subtly heart-shaped and are blocked by hand using felt, sinamay or straw. Trims often include birdcage veiling, flowers or oversized bows. Veil length and placement are critical to achieving professional balance and proportion in Fashions on the Field.

Pork Pie

A hat with a flat-topped crown featuring a circular indentation, paired with a short brim. The women’s pork pie offers a sharp, tailored alternative to wide-brimmed millinery, blending masculine structure with feminine styling.

In racewear, pork pies are typically elevated with refined trims such as petersham ribbon, bows, architectural quills or veiling. Worn flat or slightly forward, they create a confident, modern look that suits sleek hairstyles and structured outfits.

Saucer

A saucer is a flat, disc-shaped millinery form designed to sit angled on the side of the head. Fully blocked and structured, it is most commonly made from stiffened sinamay, fine straw or felt to maintain a crisp, precise silhouette.

Typically worn tilted and secured with a headband, comb or elastic, saucers are often trimmed beneath or along the edge of the disc. Floral detailing, feathers, netting or sculptural elements are positioned to frame the face without excessive scale. Popular in contemporary racewear and formal occasion millinery, the saucer offers strong visual impact while remaining refined, balanced and elegant.

 

Sculptural Headpiece

A sculptural headpiece is a contemporary millinery form defined by shape, structure and artistic intent rather than by traditional hat silhouettes. These pieces move beyond historic hat categories, focusing instead on three-dimensional form, balance and visual impact.

Sculptural headpieces may be created through freeform blocking, wire work, hand shaping or mixed construction techniques. Materials such as sinamay, parasisal straw, silk abaca, felt or wire are commonly used, often combined with unconventional trims or surface treatments. In racewear and Fashions on the Field, sculptural headpieces are valued for their individuality and strong presence, offering a bold, fashion-forward alternative to conventional millinery while maintaining precision, craftsmanship and wearability.

 

Sun Hat

A stylised sun hat made by a milliner balances fashion-forward design with effective sun protection. Unlike casual beach hats, millinery sun hats are fully blocked, structured and designed to maintain their shape throughout a full day outdoors.

For racewear, these hats are created using premium materials such as sinamay, parasisal straw or silk abaca. Sculptural brims, refined detailing and intentional embellishment elevate the sun hat into a statement piece that meets the demands of formal event dressing while offering practical coverage.

Top Hat

A tall, flat-topped hat with straight sides and a narrow brim, traditionally associated with men’s formal ceremonial wear. In contemporary women’s millinery, the top hat has been reimagined as a bold and fashion-forward statement piece.

Created in straw, abaca, raffia or fabric, modern top hats are often richly trimmed and may incorporate veiling or sculptural embellishment. Their strong vertical silhouette adds drama and individuality to racewear and special occasion outfits.

Trilby

A hat with a narrow brim and tapered crown, typically lighter and more casual than a fedora. In women’s racewear, the trilby becomes a chic, modern alternative to wide-brimmed hats when crafted from premium materials and styled thoughtfully.

Straw trilbies are compact, structured and often worn slightly back on the head to showcase the face and hairstyle. They pair particularly well with tailored suits, linen dresses or structured jumpsuits, offering a confident and contemporary look.

Turban

A close-fitting, brimless headpiece that encloses or wraps the head. Turbans may be soft-wrapped, hand-shaped or blocked. In racewear and formal millinery, blocked straw turbans are prized for their sculptural clarity and refined elegance.

Blocked turbans are formed over a solid base, creating a permanent, structured silhouette that distinguishes them from fabric wraps. They can be minimalist or richly embellished and offer a glamorous, confident alternative to traditional hat forms.

Wide-Brim Hat

A wide-brim hat is defined by its expansive brim, designed for both dramatic visual impact and effective sun protection. In racewear and occasion millinery, this silhouette is one of the most iconic and powerful, offering elegance, presence and strong visual balance.

Wide-brim hats are typically fully blocked and structured, often with wired edges to maintain precise shape. Crafted from materials such as sinamay, parasisal straw or silk abaca, they allow for both subtle and elaborate trimming. A well-designed wide-brim hat frames the face beautifully and epitomises refined, high-impact millinery for the races.

Wire Work Headpiece

A wire work headpiece is a form of structured millinery created using millinery wire as the primary construction material.

These pieces are sculpted by shaping, mapping, or free-forming wire into frameworks that define the overall form. The wire structure may be left exposed or covered with materials such as thread, tulle, or beads and the variety of trims used with wire work is literally endless.  

Wire work headpieces can take many forms, including abstract or organic shapes, leaf-like structures, halos, or finely detailed sculptural designs. They are often lightweight but visually complex, relying on balance and precision rather than mass.

Because of their sculptural nature, wire work headpieces are frequently regarded as wearable art rather than purely functional accessories.

 

Note: Many hat shapes may overlap, evolve or be reinterpreted depending on material, scale and styling intent.