Millinery Materials and Tools
Millinery Materials and Tools
One of the fastest ways to lose confidence in millinery is to believe you need everything before you begin - you don’t!
Millinery has a long tradition of skill over equipment. Tools matter - but knowing why you’re using them matters far more than owning the latest version of them. This page is not a shopping list. It’s a guide to what actually earns its place on the workbench, and what can wait.
To create this page, I walked through my studio and listed most of what lives here. Like most milliners, I hoard. Do not think you need to replicate this list. It has taken me over 15 years to build my kit to this point - and I run a millinery school.
Blocking and Forming
Hat Blocks
Wooden forms used to shape millinery materials. The material is stretched, steamed and pinned to the block and allowed to dry into its final shape.
Hat Block Stands
Support blocks at a comfortable working height and angle during blocking.
Block Removal Tools
Assist in safely easing blocked hats from wooden forms without damage.
Blocking Pins
Used to secure material to the block while shaping and drying.
Glad Wrap
Wrapped around wooden blocks before blocking to prevent materials sticking when stiffener dries, particularly when working with straw, sinamay or stiffened fabrics.
Baby Powder
Used on puzzle blocks to prevent pieces sticking together during removal.
Blocking Materials and Foundations
Felt Hoods
Conical shapes with enough material to form a crown. Ideal for small hats without brims.
Felt Capelines
Wide shapes allowing the crown and brim to be blocked from a single piece of felt.
Straw Hoods
Conical shapes used for small hats or pillboxes. Straw is less forgiving than felt but responds beautifully to steam.
Straw Capelines
Pre-woven bodies with crown and brim. Available in fine weave, standard weave and sisal knotted capelines, each offering different levels of rigidity and texture.
Paper Straw Capelines
Woven capelines made from paper fibres, including Shantung paper capelines, crosshatch weave capelines and raffia paper capelines. Lightweight, versatile and easy to shape with steam.
Buntal Woven Straw Mats
Flat woven discs made from buntal fibres, used for saucers, trims and beginner practice.
Panama Straw
Exceptionally fine handwoven straw that blocks beautifully, but requires careful moisture control.
Vintage Straw Capelines and Hoods
Offer unique textures and weaves. Handle gently and expect increased brittleness.
Buckram
A traditional cotton or linen foundation material that dries extremely firm once shaped and set.
Fosshape
A felt-like thermoplastic material that becomes permanently stiff when heated, often used as a buckram alternative.
Esparterie Blocking Canvas
A traditional woven canvas used as a foundation material, particularly in couture and European millinery.
Paper Straw Fabric
A lightweight woven sheet material used as a stable base for covered hats.
Wadding
Used to build shape, soften edges and adjust fit beneath coverings.
Woven and Fabric Materials
Sinamay
An open-weave abaca fibre fabric usually layered with alternating grain direction for strength.
Basket Weave Sinamay
A lightweight, open-structured millinery fabric made from abaca plant fibres, featuring a distinct, large checkered or lattice pattern.
Crosshatch Woven Sinamay Netting
A decorative sinamay variation offering texture and visual interest.
Silk Abaca
A refined variation containing silk, prized for its luminous finish and fluid drape.
Jinsin / Buntal Fabric
A crisp, fine woven straw fabric that blocks cleanly and produces a polished finish.
Vintage Straw Cloth
Provides texture and character - no longer commonly manufactured.
Calico
Used as a protective barrier between iron and blocking material.
Fabric for Hats
A variety of patterns, textures and materials used for covering hat foundations.
Fabrics for Flower Making
Chosen for their ability to be stiffened, dyed and shaped.
Tulle
A fine net fabric used for soft volume, layering and decorative detail.
Fabric Netting
Sourced widely and used for layering, texture and experimentation.
Crochet Sinamay
A textured variation of sinamay used for surface interest.
Trims and Decorative Elements
Ribbons
Used structurally and decoratively, from petersham to fine wrapping ribbons.
Straw Braids
Woven straw trims distinct from ribbons, including Racello, Swiss braid, Starlight braid and hemp straw braid.
Veiling
Adds softness, mystery or structural detail.
Crinoline (Horsehair Braid)
Available in plain, pleated and tubing forms. Used to create volume, loops, curls and sculptural trims that hold their shape.
Gimp Cord
Often used in place of Petersham for smaller headpieces.
EVA Foam
A lightweight, closed-cell foam used for sculptural trims and decorative elements.
Thermoplastics
Worbla, Wonderflex, Elasta-Plastic - all heat-activated materials used for sculptural and structural decorative elements.
Ultra Light Foam Clay
A lightweight air-dry clay used for decorative forms and trims.
Feathers
Add movement, height and airiness.
Stamens
Used as centres for handmade flowers.
Pom Poms
Variety of materials - used as decorative accents.
Fabric Bows
Applied as trims or focal elements.
Buttons
Used decoratively or structurally.
Lace
Can be stiffened and wired to create trims with height and structure.
Beads
Used for embellishment and detail.
Pearls
Used for classic finishing touches.
Embroidery Threads
Ideal for wrapping wire.
Wire Headbands
Provide structure for headpieces.
Wire Head Combs
Used to secure pieces in the hair.
Hat Elastic
Fine elastic used to discreetly secure hats and headpieces.
Wire Ferrules (Crimp Joiners)
Used to neatly join wire ends.
Jewellery Wire
Used for delicate trim work.
Floristry Tape
Used for binding wire stems and constructing millinery flowers.
Vintage Embellishments
Collected over time for their uniqueness.
Design and Planning
Sketchbook and Pencils
Used for developing ideas, working through proportions, recording techniques, and problem-solving during the making process. A sketchbook is a working tool, not a finished record.
Hand Tools
Sewing Needles
A working mix of purpose-made millinery needles and regular sewing needles. Millinery needles (often called straw needles) are longer and finer, allowing long stitches through thick felt, layered straw and awkward angles. Regular sewing needles are also used where appropriate for lighter fabrics and finishing work.
Fabric Pins
Used for temporary positioning of fabric and trims.
Thimble
Protects fingers during prolonged hand stitching.
Tweezers
Variety of long and short tweezer, useful for positioning small details and working in tight spaces.
Pliers
Round nose and straight, essential for shaping and manipulating millinery wire.
Wire Cutters
Used to cut wire cleanly without distortion.
Awls
Create holes or guide stitches through dense materials.
Needle Threader
Assists with threading fine or long needles.
Quick Unpick
Used to remove stitching when adjustments are needed.
Wood Darner
Used for flower making and occasionally as a small blocking form.
Cable Needles
Helpful for pushing fabric into tight or awkward spaces.
Metal Corset Boning
A firm, narrow tool useful for easing hats from blocks during removal.
Pusher Downer
Used to push and seat materials firmly onto the block, particularly around tight curves and crown edges.
Puller Downer
Used to draw material down evenly over the block without distorting the grain or weave.
Rounding Jack
Used to refine curves and smooth transitions when shaping materials on the block.
Foot Tolliker
A traditional millinery tool used for controlled pressure and finishing work in hard-to-reach areas.
Butter Knife
Can assist with removing stubborn hats from blocks. Always use with care.
Soldering Iron with Blade
Used for joining sinamay seams cleanly by melting fibres together rather than stitching.
Hat Brush
Used when working with felt to clean the surface, lift the nap, and refine the finish.
Screwdriver Set
Used for block stands, studio fixtures, and maintenance.
Cordless Drill
Used for block stands, studio setup, and creating holes in trims and structural elements.
Dremel
A rotary tool used for shaping, sanding, and trimming EVA foam and other sculptural materials.
Cutting, Measuring and Pressing
Scissors
Multiple pairs are essential, with different scissors reserved for different materials.
Stanley Knife
Used for cutting dense or structural materials.
Metal Ruler
Provides straight edges for cutting and marking.
Tailor’s Chalk
Used for temporary marking on fabric.
Grey Lead Pencils
Used for pattern marking and notes.
Coloured Markers
Helpful for colour-matching millinery wire.
Measuring Tape
Used for head measurements and pattern work.
Reading Glasses
Higher magnification is invaluable for detailed hand stitching.
Sewing Machine
Used for construction, trimming and structural stitching.
Steamers
Steam is fundamental to shaping millinery materials.
Irons
Used for pressing, shaping, and activating heat-responsive materials.
Adhesives, Paints and Finishing Supplies
PVA Glue
For making a 50/50 mix - a safer alternative to chemical stiffeners that dries clear and matte.
Fabric Glue
Used where stitching is not suitable.
UHU Glue
A strong general-purpose adhesive.
Superglue
Used sparingly for permanent fixes.
Contact Cement
Used primarily with EVA foam.
Fabric Dyes
Used to colour natural fibres and fabrics.
Hairspray
Used with calico or cotton buds to remove or soften fabric glue residue.
Acrylic Paint
Used for colour matching.
Spray Paint
Used for even colour coverage and finishes.
Quilt Basting Spray
Used to temporarily hold fabric before stitching.
Paint Brushes
Used for paint and adhesive application.
Consumables and Studio Safety
Thread
Used for construction, wiring and finishing.
Cotton
Used for padding and protection.
Elastic
Wide used during blocking to reduce reliance on pins.
String
Used for string lines when blocking.
Elastic Bands
Used for holding rolled or coiled materials.
Surgical Clips
Provide extra hands during construction.
Paper Clips
Used for temporary holding.
Cotton Buds
Used for detailed cleaning and application.
Rubber Gloves
Worn when dyeing or spray painting.
Disposable Face Masks
Worn when spray painting or using basting sprays.
Water Spray Bottles
Used to control moisture when shaping.
Storage Jars
Used for storing adhesives and mixtures.
Baskets
Used for organising materials.
Large Storage Tubs
Used for long-term storage.
Chopping Board
Used as a protective work surface.
Business, Packing and Presentation
Business Cards
Used for branding and client contact.
Logo Stickers
Used for hat boxes, presentation and branding.
Hat Boxes
Protect finished pieces during storage and transport.
Tissue Paper
Used for cushioning and protection.
Bubble Wrap
Used for additional protection during shipping.
Paper Patterns
Primarily leaves and flower patterns I have developed and refined over time.
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A final note
This list reflects a working millinery studio built over time, not a starting point.
Every tool here exists because it solved a problem at some stage - not because it was owned in advance. Your kit will grow in the same way. Some things will earn a permanent place on your bench quickly. Others may never be needed at all.
If you understand what each material and tool is for, you will make better decisions, waste less, and work with far more confidence than someone chasing completeness.
Millinery is learned through handling, observing, and making mistakes you can recover from. Let your practice guide what you add next.
If you are building your kit slowly and deliberately, you are doing it exactly right.
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